Wednesday, September 10, 2008

What a wild night with gales! Strong wind and lashing rain all night long. Up again at 7:00 a.m. The storm began to let up just after that. Had another great Highland breakfast this morning. Left the caravan at 9:15 a.m. and headed for Salen, drove straight through it and took the road to Dervaig again, going through the middle of the island, passing within sight of Kengharair again. At Dervaig, we took B8073. Made a side trip down to Croig where Dad once knew a man, Neil ‘DeGaulle’ Galbraith, so nicknamed for his habit of wearing a French style beret. Neil had died perhaps in 2007. He lived in the old drovers’ inn at Croig, last house on the left, a white one. Back onto main road again. Continued on to the beautiful white sandy beach at Calgary Bay. Parked and got out, walked down to the beach and collected some shells. A stunningly beautiful beach. Environmentally protected. Too windy and cold most of the time for any swimming but would be fun for kids and their sand toys anyway. Back on the road and around the bay. Half way along the south side of the bay, if you look back across at the hills on the north side, a crofting village once stood high up there. ( I have since learned it is Inivea.) Dad says our McKinnons were there in the early 1800s, and likely earlier, (I think this is/was part of Sunipol Estate?), and got cleared from there and went to Burg, Kilninian, where they may have been cleared again. Continuing on, we arrived at Burg House, a nice house on the left, which sits on what was once a crofting village of the same name – such is the case with most farm houses on Mull. The McKinnons were here. My McArthurs had been here too, in stone houses that once stood just up the hill and to the left of the present farm house at Burg. Across the road, there is a collection of ruins. This was Reudle. The better preserved ruin was Reudle School where James McDougall, husband to Kate McKinnon (great grandfather’s sister), once taught. He and Kate had 4 daughters, at least 2 of them died young. James died young too, while Kate was expecting the youngest one, Jemima, given the feminine form of James as a name, in honour of her late father. Kate’s brother, Donald McKinnon, was the first resident of the current Burg house and Kate, after she was widowed, became his housekeeper.
Took a side trip down to the Ulva Ferry. Looks like a 2 minute crossing on a small water taxi. Continued along the north shore of Loch Na Keal. Watched as a helicopter and bucket attachment went out to a boat anchored in the loch to make either a pick up or delivery.
We passed the gate of Torloisk Estate and then turned in at the gate marked ‘Torloisk Farm Square’. Once inside, we saw a fairly large but old farm stead. On the left, past a shed, is white cottage (joined to other buildings) where lives Margaret McKinnon , granddaughter of the above mentioned Donald McKinnon, my great grandfather’s brother. Margaret had been a housekeeper for years at Torloisk house. Had a lovely visit with her and took pictures.
Back to Salen. Stopped to shop. Stopped at caravan. On to Java to see Mhairi and George for dinner. At 7:30 p.m. we all went to Duart Castle for a charity do in aid of the Salen Church. Lovely buffet. It was a put together affair, but well done – a night of pipes, fiddle, accordion, Gaelic singing, all set in a 13th century castle belonging to the McLeans. Present chief of the clan, Sir Laughlin Mclean, and his mother were there. Left at 11:30 to near gale conditions. Cup of tea at Mhairi’s. Back to caravan by midnight and bed.