Sunday, September 28, 2008

Said goodbye to a tearful Catherine Carlin, always a sentimental lady. Went to Glasgow airport, returned our rental car and boarded our plane for the flight home. I was fortunate enough to get a window seat and the view I got will stay with me the rest of my life. As we took off and gained altitude, the plane banked right and wheeled over the Highlands and islands giving me a breathtaking view of the hills now mostly brown with bracken, broken up by lochs, inlets and patches of green. I promised Scotland - I will be back.
Nine hour flight home. Flew into 'strong headwinds' - a gentler way of saying we were fighting an Atlantic hurricane!

Saturday, September 27, 2008

I was asked what I wanted to do with our last full day in Scotland so I suggested going to the seaside somewhere, as I knew it wasn't far. We all took a nice tour along the Ayrshire coast, looked out at the island of Arran, saw the famous Turnberry golf course and others, had lunch at a cafe attached to a craft/farmers' market and stopped at Maidens. Walked along the Maidens pier and then down to a little beach where I picked up a souvenier stone for my garden. (This was later confiscated as a possible weapon at the airport!) A very nice day for a seaside drive.

Friday, September 26, 2008

Catherine arrived in my room at 7:30 a.m. with a cup of tea which was a nice surprise. The plan for today is to see Mum's cousin, Douglas McGregor, who is 88 years old but has driven up from home in Moorecambe, England 6 hours away, to see us! He even has a cell phone. They are to arrive here about 1:00 p.m.
Had a great visit with Douglas and his lovely wife, Dorothy, a sweet, tiny doll of a woman who looks rather frail with Parkinson's and other problems - Douglas just dotes on her. Douglas, luckily, is fit and bright and seems much younger than his years. His hair is still black. Douglas is the son of Angus McGregor, my great grandmother's eldest brother.

Thursday, September 25, 2008

Left Forest Mill about 10:00 a.m. Took motorway straight through Glasgow, which wasn't nearly as scary as I'd thought it would be! Arrived at West Kilbride in Ayrshire much sooner than we had anticipated. Going to stay with Catherine Carlin, Dad's cousin. Her mother was my grandfather's sister, Catherine FLETCHER. Catherine seems to be doing pretty well. She has a nice, spacious 3 bedroom flat on Orchard St. Had some lunch after which I took a walk downtown to see the shops. Many craft shops but mostly designer stuff as opposed to souveniers. Had dinner at 7:00 p.m. but I could not eat - not sure why, maybe I'm coming down with something. Chatted until 9:00 p.m. then I went to bed as I am just so tired out.
Mum phoned Mia, twin sister to Mum's old school mate, Topsy, to arrange a visit but Mia is too ill with a flu to have any visitors.

Wednesday, September 24, 2008

Got up today still feeling really weird. I think I've officially had enough holiday now! Just wanted to go home to my own home, Ron and the kids now. Also, this part of Scotland is not mine - might as well be a foreign country. As Valerie Dunbar's song says, it's "Always Argyll."
Eileen made us a fabulous breakfast - sausage, bacon, egg, toast, potato scone, juice and tea! Got on the road about 10:00 a.m. Back down to Kincardine Bridge. Back towards Stirling on motorway, then off at Exit 10. Took a B road over to the A road just west of Stirling. Took a left toward Stirling, but got off at a road marked 'Camusbarron and Touch Business Centre'. Followed this up and around, through the village of Camusbarron, and out in the countryside came upon a road where an old military tank range used to be. There are still signs there referring to munitions testing. A gate there, up to Shiel Brae Farm, where Dad lived as a boy until 1936, was padlocked. Nearby was a parked police car and we could see several 4x4 SUVs running over the trails. We asked a policeman about the locked gate but he knew nothing of it or Sheil Brae beyond it. Next we went to nearby Berry Hill Farm to inquire but found nobody at home. Undeterred, Dad decided to try Murray Hall Farm. It used to belong to McLarens and my grandfather had worked as a shepherd for Lawrence McLaren years ago. Happily, turned out that James McLaren, grand nephew of Lawrence, is now the farmer and they still own Sheil Brae today. First, he offered info. only but then said he would go up and unlock the gate for us. After doing that, McLaren decided he would take us up the road with his 4x4 truck (as the road is nearly impassable) but we would have to hike down as he had farm work to attend to. But once up there, he must have become fascinated with Dad's stories about Shiel Brae because he stayed around and then drove us back down to our car again! We exchanged info. He said he would like to see old pics that Dad has of Shiel Brae. Five years ago, the house was up but the roof was off. Today, the house is 2/3 tumbled down. I asked how old it might be and I was told 300-400 years old!
After leaving Sheil Brae, we went into St. Ninians for gas. Got lost a couple of times - those roundabouts are murder! Back at Eileen's at 2:00 p.m. Checked e-mail. Eileen made us tea and currant scones. She is getting a roast beef dinner ready. Awaiting the arrival of her sister, my cousin, Mairi, whom I vaguely remember from my early childhood in Scotland.
Had a great time with Mairi and her husband Frank Nelson. They live in Godalming, England. Very friendly people. Had a big roast beef dinner. Later on, chatted with Ian and Margaret online. Bed about 11:30 p.m.

Tuesday, September 23, 2008

Drove away from my beloved Argyll this morning. Went down to Crarae Garden just past Minard and stopped at Kilevin Cemetery to take pictures of family graves. Photographed Camp Quebec, now a caravan park, at Inverary, on the way through. My good friend Elly Daniels' father was with the Canadian 48th Highlanders and had trained here in WW2. Past Inverary, stopped at Kilmalieu Cemetery. Dad's McKinnon grandparents are buried there but Dad could not find their grave on his last visit (2003?) there, but we found it this time. Carried on to Arrochar and stopped at the cemetery there too, where my great great great great grandfather, George Hamilton, is buried. Then had a lunch of scampi and chips, tried the Bulmers cider too, at Arrochar Hotel.
Onwards now to Stirling, then south to Kincardine Bridge. Then headed north to Forest Mill. The very first house on the left, Smith Cottage, is where my cousin Eileen (McGregor) Gilchrist lives with her husband, Stewart. Eileen was at home to greet us. Having a nice visit and being fed really well! Nice dinner of roast chicken, potatoes, cauliflower and a pear tart for dessert. Eileen has a well stocked bar including 2 flavoured ciders (Jacques??) that I had never heard of. Tried the red one - which must have been black currant - delicious! Went to bed at midnight after e-mailing the kids.

Monday, September 22, 2008

After breakfast, set off for Oban, along the A816. Passed Tibertich (try saying cheaper-steesch!)where Bessie Johnston's New Zealander husband worked/rested during WW1. We believe they met there sometime when Valentine Biggar was recovering from his war injuries.
Arrived in Oban at 10:30 a.m. Parked at the former school at the top of Stevenson St. Went to lots of shops along George St. mainly and bought souvenier t-shirts etc. for all the family back home. Had lunch at McTavish's restaurant again. We were going to eat in the Columba Hotel but could not find the door! Returned to our caravan about 2:00 p.m. What a beautiful warm, sunny day here today. It was so foggy this morning.
I sat outside most of the afternoon with my book. It was far too nice to be indoors. At 5:30 p.m. we set off for Balibeg, on the other side of Lochgilphead, to see the Kennedys. Found John Jr. and Niall at home. Michael was with his grandfather, Johnnnie MacVicar, in Lochgilphead. Catherine and John were away in Glasgow at a hospital where Catherine was having genetic counselling as their have been about a dozen cases of breast and ovarian cancer in the McKinnon (my paternal grandmother)side over 2 or 3 generations. This is very likely the BRAC1 or BRAC2 gene. I have been told to seek genetic counselling too but have not done so yet. Catherine and John arrived home at 8:00 p.m. and we had a great visit with them as always. Catherine gave me a Rangers scarf for Patrick. Returned to our caravan at 10:30 p.m.
Leaving Argyll tomorrow.

Sunday, September 21, 2008

Usual start to the day. Had a quiet morning. Just waiting for Robert and Geri to arrive. Dad has been studying Robert's research and making notes. I am just taking this chance to read some of my paperback book. Robert and Geri arrived about 11:30 a.m. Had a visit and tea and cookies. Dad and Robert exchanged some family tree theories. Robert was quite excited when Dad said he thought there might be an old burying ground near Inverneill. He ran out to his car to get maps and had Dad point out the location! Then took some photographs. Robert and Geri left for England at 1:00 p.m. Quiet afternoon. Dad cleaned out the rental car. I did more reading. Alisdair McNair, farmer here, came and invited us all to the house for a chat this evening. Took a drive later on. Looking for a place to have a meal but found nothing suitable nearby. Went to Co-op in Lochgilphead for eggs and milk. Drove up to Ford for a look. Passed the former Ford Hotel, now a B&B, where Mum and Dad had their wedding reception. They had been married in the manse at Kilmichael Glassary. Came back to caravan and had tea and ham sandwiches. Went up to the McNair's wonderful 200 year old farm house. Walls are 27 inches thick, made of solid stone. Had a nice visit from 7:30 p.m. until 11:00 pm. Had some wine. Dad took a dram with Alisdair. Back to caravan then bed.

Saturday, September 20, 2008

Up super early today at 4:30 a.m.! Out the door by 5:00 a.m. to drive to Kennecraig, by Tarbert, to catch catch the 7:00 a.m. ferry to Port Ellen, Islay. The road to Kennecraig, although nicely marked, is still very winding and far too fast - my nerves were just about shot after going down that road and back today! Nice on board ship though. Had a very good full breakfast on board. It is a nice 2 hour crossing. Arrived in Port Ellen just after 9:00 a.m. Drove to Bowmore. Stopped there for cake to take while visiting and had coffee in a tea room. Drove on to Port Askaig where we caught the much smaller ferry over to Jura. Only maybe a 10 minute journey to Feolin, which consists of absolutely nothing but 1 stone house, in which Dad's cousin, Isa (McInnes) Darroch and her husband, Donald, once lived. All of the other Islay-Jura ferry passengers were heading to Craighouse on Jura for the funeral too. It was very crowded at the church and we had to stand in the vestry instead of the main part of the chapel for the service. Short simple service. After we came out side we were amazed at how many people came out of the tiny church. Saw Neil's children, Ewan, Margaret and Mary Ann at the door. Spoke to Johnnie MacVicar, Mitchell MacVicar, Catherine Kennedy, John Kennedy Jr., Mamie McInnes and Johnnie's sister, Christina. Recognized some other cousins - Donald Ewan Darroch, Willie McDonald - I'm sure there were more that I should know, but don't. Did not attend burial as it was miles away at Inverlussa along a narrow and sure to be crowded road. We returned to Feolin for ferry. Crossed to Islay at about 2:15 p.m. Arrived at the Fletchers', who lived in cottages along a treed and walled road off to the right of the road from Port Askaig, before you come to Brigend. Peggy, Alisdair's widow, lives with her divorced daughter, Margaret, there. Margaret's daughter, also called Margaret, was there with her gamekeeper husband, Scott, and their 2 small children, Abby and Robbie, ages about 2 and 4 years old. They left and Peggy's youngest son, Rondy Fletcher, came in. Had very good soup, sandwiches, cake and tea about 3:00 p.m. Had to leave by 4:40 p.m. to get Port Ellen for the last ferry back to the mainland at 6:00 p.m. The evening was nice and we had a lovely sail back to Kennecraig. That was the last of our sea cruises for this trip. Been to 4 islands and on 9 ferries now. Back at caravan by 9:00 p.m. Had leftover sandwiches and tea. Journal writing and dishwashing. Dad was reading through Robert McMillan's research.

Friday, September 19, 2008

Same beginning to the day as always. Took a drive out to see Inverneill Farm, where my great great great grandfather, Hugh McGregor, was farm manager last, until his retirement to Burnside Cottage in Ardrishaig. (Dad believes Burnside Cottage is a low white cottage on your left, as you enter Ardrishaig from the Lochgilphead end.) Inverneill can be reached by using a road that goes in through the hamlet of Inverneill, but this is a bad road. It is slightly better to take another road, the next one down the road (going towards Ardrishaig). This farm was once a real 'show piece' but by 2003 was in bad repair, and now in 2008 is much worse - roof caving in on farm buildings, roof gone on the farmhouse where my McGregors once lived.
We planned to visit Archie John MacVicar, my second cousin, this morning but thought it best not to cut it too fine as we need to get back to the caravan in time for Robert MacMillan's expected arrival at noon. Went to Lochgilphead Co-op again for more supplies. Returned to caravan by 11:00 a.m. Made up a tray of assorted sandwiches for our guests. Just waiting for their arrival now. Still raining out! Dad has gone outside to take some photographs of Stroneskar.
Got a phone message brought to the caravan by Mrs. McNair. Robert had phoned from Glasgow to say that there had been a bad diesal spill and traffic was being re-routed. He wasn't going to arrive now until perhaps 3:30 p.m. So we went down to see Archie John afterall at Gartnagrenach. Back at caravan by 3:30 p.m. The McNairs have just brought some sheep down from the hill with their dogs and are herding them into a fank. 4:10 p.m. now. Dad meanwhile was looking at a book of Mull burials that he had bought and was pleased to find a burial for a Jemima Elliot (Cameron) at Kilninian, who had died at Tobermory. She was the right age to be the daughter of Kate McKinnon and James McDougall. Our Jemima's grandfather McDougall was a shoemaker in Tobermory.
At 4:15 p.m. Mrs. McNair brought another phone message. Donald Shuttleworth had called to say that Robert was now with him at Lochgair. They would be coming from there very soon.
Finally! Robert and Geri arrived! We had a great visit. Geri is very nice. Robert and Dad mostly conducted a big genealogical meeting while the ladies chatted about family etc. - Geri has 5 children as well. Had sandwiches, cake, tea, coffee and sparkling juices. Was great to meet these folks at last. They left by 8:30 p.m. Geri was completely exhausted. We have to go to bed early anyway as we have a very early start the next day in order to catch the 7:00 p.m. ferry to Islay. Robert left some family tree info. for Dad to look at, if he gets a chance, as they will come back Sunday morning for another visit before they start back for England again.

Thursday, September 18, 2008

The usual start to the day. Did a little bit of laundry but there is little hope of it ever drying with the frequent rain! Set off through Lochgilphead on the way to Lochgair to see the house 'Shore Cottage' where Dad's aunt, Mary Fletcher, once lived. Continued on a passed 'Birdfield' the house where Iain McInnes, Dad's late cousin once lived. Stopped at 'Barliath' to take a picture. The present owner, a Mr. Buchan, met us and asked us to come inside. What was once 6 houses (3 up, 3 down joined together) later became 3 houses. In the 1930s/40s, Dad's McKinnon grandmother was in the north end and his Fletcher grandparents lived in the middle section. Dad had not been inside in 61, since his Fletcher grandmother's 1947 death, 61 years ago, so this was a special treat for him. By coincidence, my great uncle Hughie (Hugh McGregor)had lived in the middle section once too, after leaving Leragnahension and awaiting passage to Canada around 1919.
Next, we went along to Inverary and out the A819 which joins the A85 and turned right towards Dalmally. Went through Dalmally and just past a farm called 'Corrygoile' (on left) is the road up to 'Succoth Farm' on the right. The road starts out bad and gets worse! Went past the railway cottages on the left and under a railway bridge and eventually found the farm. The larger white house on our left is the farm house, where a Capt. McLaren lived in my grandfather's time. The smaller white house, attached to some farm buildings, is the house where Dad (and likely his sister, Annie) were born. A little more than a year after Dad's birth, the Fletchers went to Sheilbrae in Stirlingshire, and to Cononish after that. I think my grandparents went to Succoth first when they married in 1928.
Had a nice lunch of scampi and chips, with a Strongbow cider, at the Glenorchy Lodge. Back on the road at 1:00 p.m. Visited my Fletcher grandparents' grave at Glenorchy Parish Church. Many Fletchers buried there too. Took pictures. Copied down the inscription on the headstone. My grandparents nor Annie's names are not inscribed on the stone.
Erected To The Memory
Of
Angus Fletcher of Black Mount
At Blar Dec. 4 1838 Age 73
And His Wife Lilly Campbell
Died December 24 1850 Age 78
And Their Children
Margaret Who Died Aug. 22 1854
Age 38 And
Angus Late Of China
Dec. 3, 1882 Age 54 And
Their Grandson
Angus John Campbell Also
Late of China 10 Nov. 1863 Age 34
Also Isabella Daughter of The Above
Angus Fletcher Of Black Mount Who
Died in Lochgilphead Sept. 1875
Took a bit of a drive out behind the church and over the Strae Bridge, over the River Orchy. Dad wanted us to see 'Castles Farm' where Lizzie Anderson's (Mum's relative)father once lived.
Back to Inverary. Got some groceries at the Co-op store there - not very good selection, so we ended up going to the Lochgilphead one. After that, stopped at Donald (Dad's cousin)and Flora MacVicar's house, at #8 Siclair Ave., just around the corner from Donald's brother, Robbie MacVicar and his wife, Peggy (who happens to be Flora's sister!)Had tea and ham rolls. Came back to caravan about 8:00 p.m. Going to be seeing Robert Angus MacMillan, from Wiltshire, England, and his girlfriend, Geri, tomorrow at the caravan.

Wednesday, September 17, 2008

Up at usual time – 7:00ish. Usual breakfast made by Dad. Went along to Lochgilphead and stopped at Robbie MacVicar’s (Dad’s cousin) place at # 13 Brodie St. Had tea and biscuits and a nice visit with Robbie and Peggy. Phoned Caledonia-McBrayne here to confirm Islay ferry booking (Kennacraig – Port Ellen) for Saturday morning as we are going that way to attend Neil McInnes’ funeral which is to be held at noon at Craighouse, Jura, I believe. Phoned the Fletchers at Bridgend, Islay (Alisdair Fletcher’s widow, Peggy, and also her daughter, Margaret) to re-arrange our planned Wednesday visit to Saturday instead, after the Jura funeral. Robbie and Peggy very kindly gave us some towels as our newest caravan doesn’t provide them.
After that, went along to #45 Brodie St. where Mamie (McInnes) Walsh (Neil’s sister and Dad’s cousin) lives. She is now the last survivor of the 8 McInnes children. We were happily surprised to find Catherine (MacVicar) Kennedy (Mamie and Neil’s niece, daughter of their late sister, Teena) there with her. Catherine soon left for an appointment but her eldest son, John Kennedy, soon joined us. He was finished his joiner (carpenter) work for the day. He now also trains part time with a professional U19 football (soccer) club in East Stirlingshire. He is seemingly very talented. Left all of them about 4:00 p.m. Will see them on Jura on Saturday.
Took a drive down the Achnamara road again, this time travelling farther down to see Daltote, Dunrostan, Ardnaw etc. Lizzie Anderson, a relative of Mum for whom she once worked (1940s/50s?), lived at Ardnaw until perhaps 1990. Mum had lived and worked there off and on for years. Lochead Farm, where Dad worked, is just over the hill from there. My parents met there, must be about 1947, while burning heather. Returned to caravan about 6 or 7 p.m. Made ham sandwiches and tea. Writing in journal until 8:00 p.m.

Tuesday, September 16, 2008

Well not dry today either! Up at 6:30 a.m. as the farmer was loading sheep onto a truck for market. Breakfast. On the road by 9:00 a.m. Just past Ardrishaig, drove down the B8024 and then turned onto a smaller road just across from a large collection of greenhouses (a heather nursery) to Lochead Farm, where Dad and my grandfather Fletcher once worked together. Grandfather died there in 1950. I think Dad was there from 1945 – 1952. Took a further drive along through to Ellary. Beautiful Victorian era walled gardens and greenhouses there. Duncan Leitch (husband of my great grandmother’s sister, Margaret McGregor) worked here until their 1911 immigration to Australia. We returned to B8024 and went down to Clackbrech. While passing Ballyaurgan Farm (Mum’s birthplace and that of her mother, Marion McGregor) a tractor came along with a fair herd of cattle trotting behind along the road – the closest thing to cattle droving in Scotland I’ll ever see, I guess! Passed Cretshegan Farm. You can see Crear Farm above it. Took a road up around the back to get a better look at Crear, where Johnston relatives once were. Saw an unbelievable amount of rabbits there. Saw Coulighailtro as well. Stopped for a really nice lunch at the 300+ year old Kilberry Inn. Had smoked haddock, creamed leeks and mashed potatoes with grainy mustard – wonderful! Finally got to have a glass of the cider I was hoping for – it was Magners, I think. Dad had a Maverick beer. Stopped at Leragnahension , walked through old cemetery near the burn, directly opposite from the farm house. Passed Carse and also Dunmore School where the Kerr (relatives) children went. Returned to Lochgilphead. Shopped at Tesco. On the way back to Stroneskar, we stopped at Achnabrec Cemetery. Took lots of pictures there (lots of family in there.) Back at Stroneskar, we passed the farmer/owner, Alisdair McNair, who Dad knows from years ago. A few minutes later, his wife, Sheena, came out to see us too. We weren’t in our caravan 10 minutes when a young man from the house came to our door with a phone message – some very bad news. Neil McInnes (one of the 8 cousins from the Rannoch Station days) had died on Jura last night. We had been due to visit him tomorrow, sadly. Had tea and ham sandwiches. Then headed into Lochgilphead to see Johnnie MacVicar (widower of Neil’s sister, Teena) to find out about any funeral arrangements. Will have to rearrange some of our plans but it will work out alright, I’m sure.

Monday, September 15, 2008

Didn’t sleep great last night – don’t think I’ve been active enough (sitting in cars all day) to tire myself out! Got up at 7:00 a.m. Breakfast of sausage, bacon and egg as usual. Dad having a hard time getting the gas oven lit, but at least the stove top was easy enough. This caravan is in a very pastoral setting, in a small field in the middle of a working sheep farm. Nearby, against a stone farm building is an old overshot mill, not a very big one.
Left caravan at 9:00 a.m. and took a drive down the Stockavullin road to see a view of the now ruined Poltalloch Estate. Saw a circle of standing stones. Then down to Bellanoch. Went along the Crinan Canal as well. Took a drive out to Tayvallich, going right through the village and then along the upper road (B8025) past our old home of Kilmory Ross and down to Keillmore where Fletchers once lived. On the way back up, we decided to stop at Kilmory Ross to take pictures of the house. The present resident, an Englishman by the name of Chris Puslow? Came out to see what we were doing. Once he heard that we had lived there (until our 1967 immigration), he insisted we come in. His Glasgow born partner, Sue Hillman, made tea and we were shown around the nicely modernized house. We sat and had a visit for 2 hours or more. It was just wonderful. We exchanged contact info.
After that, we returned to Tayvallich and had a really nice lunch in the Tayvallich Inn, which was a motor garage during the years we lived around there. Tayvallich had been a ‘dry’ town then. Bought some biscuits at the shop. Drove down to Achnamara to see Topsy (nee Campbell) and Joe Cockburn. Topsy had been Mum’s girlhood friend. They live at #20, the first of the brown forestry houses, on your right as you enter the village. Arrived after 2:30 p.m. Stayed a good long time, arriving back at caravan at 8:30 p.m. Dad got the oven going as well as the gas fireplace – they had both been giving him a lot of trouble! Rained all night, rained all day and still raining outside. Hoping it will be dry tomorrow.

Sunday, September 14, 2008

Up at 7:30 a.m. Nice breakfast made by Jane of link sausage, bacon, egg, toast and tea. Left about 9:00 a.m. and headed back south towards Perth on A9. Took side trip into Dunkeld home town of Rena Haxton, a former school teacher I know in Canada, who was born near there in 1910. Took some pictures for her. Retraced our steps through Doune and Callander. Just past Callander, at Kilmahog, went onto A821 and followed very winding road through the Trossachs to Aberfoyle. Turned west onto B829 for Kinlochard, where Diane and Ian Williamson live, just across from the post office. Diane’s mother is Mhairi (Fletcher) Campbell on Mull. Ian’s daughter, Eilidh, joined us later. Had a really nice lunch of homemade soup, assorted sandwiches (egg, prawn, cucumber, ham and tomato), sausage rolls, coffee and lemon iced cakes. Ian then took us out in his extended Land Rover, down to Inversnaid Hotel on Loch Lomond’s east bank. Standing on the pier, if you look left (south) you can see a point of land (the second one) which is where Rowhoish was. Grandfather Alexander Fletcher and siblings lived there until about 1904 and went to school at Inversnaid School, which we passed. Next we went to the pier at Loch Katrine where we saw the ‘Sir Walter Scott’ steamer just coming into the pier at Stronachlachlan. It was made in 1899, had sea trials in the Clyde River, taken apart, packed in crates and taken over Loch Lomond to Inversnaid Hotel and loaded onto wagons pulled by teams of 16 Clydesdale horses who were run up the steep hill at full gallop lest they slow down and couldn’t get going again! It was then reassembled and put on Loch Katrine. The original engine was only replaced recently. Went back to Diane and Ian’s for coffee. Had a chance to finally e-mail home. Left Kinlochard at 5:00 p.m. Back to Aberfoyle. Went down A81 to A811 and right through Balloch to connect with A82 north (Crianlarich direction) this time, taking A83 at Tarbet – not continuing up Loch Lomond side (A82) this time. Then we were into familiar territory as we came around Loch Fyne. Stopped for groceries at Lochgilphead Tesco shop. Then went out the Oban Road (A816) up behind Lochgilphead and through Kilmichael Glassary and Kilmartin, turning right at the Ford Road (B840), then then onto another poorer road to the right, marked with a ‘Kilmichael Glen’ sign. Arrived at Stroneskar about 8:00 p.m. Had tea in our newest rental caravan there. Dad went to bed at 9:00 p.m. Mum and I (Dad calls us the clarks!) wrote in our journals until about 9:30 p.m. Will know more where I am in daylight. Visiting locally tomorrow, I think. Looking forward to that as this area, Mid Argyll, is where I really feel ‘at home’ in Scotland.

Saturday, September 13, 2008

Up at 6:30 a.m. Had a nice hot shower. A nice bathroom with a built in hair dryer and a towel warming rack. Nice breakfast of bacon, egg, sausage, tomato, toast and tea. On the road by 9:00 a.m. Posted some cards at Killin Post Office. Retraced the road back the way we came, turning south on A85 into Glen Ogle. Turned left down to Kingshouse. Followed signs for Rob Roy’s grave. Passed Auchtertyre where my great great great grandfather, Hugh McGregor, was born in 1802. Travelled the length of Loch Voil on a narrow road. Inverlochlarig at the end of this road was a house of Rob Roy’s. Across the loch, is Monachryle Turroch, where Topsy Cockburn’s (Mum’s friend) family were before Beach. Came back again and stopped in at Balquhidder Churchyard where Rob Roy McGregor, wife and sons are buried. Took pictures and explored a bit. Beautiful waterfall behind the cemetery.
Left there and followed A84 down to Strathyre where Hugh McGregor’s 2 eldest sons, John and James, were born in the early 1830s. Robert was born at Rusgachan and then the family moved to Argyll. Had lunch at Riverside Inn in Callander. Drove to Doune, went across A8320 to A9, then north towards Inverness. Bypassed Perth and continued on, getting off at Balinluig. Jane Fletcher, wife of Dad’s second cousin, Dan Fletcher, (Alisdair’s son), works at Moto Grill Restaurant there, as does their daughter, Morvern. Dad stopped in but Jane had just left for the day. Just past the restaurant, on the right, is a road marked ‘Tullimet and Dacapon’ – took that for less than 2 miles and arrived at large farm on left, white farm house, several outbuildings, which is Jane and Dan’s place. Further along this same road is a newer place called ‘Milton Cottage’ where Donald McMillan (widower of Jessie Fletcher, Alisdair’s daughter) lives. Had a great visit with all the extended Fletchers, then dinner at the Moto Grill. Then visited at Donald’s house, where I finally met his daughter, Christine, who has been a pen pal for some 27 years without ever meeting until now! Her boys, Cameron and Calum, were there, as well as her husband, Stuart Steven, and a nephew, Jack, son of her sister, Sheena. Visited until 10:00 p.m. Back to Dan and Jane’s for the night. Bed by midnight.

Pennygown Cemetery, Mull II

Pennygown Cemetery, Mull

Mull Photographs II

Mull Photographs

Friday, September 12, 2008

Up at 7:00 a.m. Highland breakfast. Packed up and tidied up. Left Mull on 10:00 a.m. Fishnish – Lochaline ferry. Travelled across Morvern on A884. Passed Beach (pronounced Bee-ach) on the right, where Topsy Cockburn‘s (an old friend of Mum’s) family once was – they were McGregors, later Gregorsons. Crossed the narrowest point of Loch Linnhe on the Corran ferry – a very short trip, about a quarter mile. Stopped in a nice coffee/gift shop in Ballachulish, on the right just before the (now boarded up) hotel, on what was once the old road through the village. Had coffee and sausage rolls. Bought some gifts. Mum and Dad both bought walking sticks. Moved along into Glencoe. Passed the sight of the 1692 Massacre of Glencoe. Then passed a small white house, up a hill on the left, called The Study. Ewan McInnes, who was married to my grandmother’s sister, Mary Ann McKinnon, came from there. Crossed the forbidding looking Rannoch Moor, which is essentially a big swamp. The hydro towers in this area were built in 1939. My grandfather, Alexander Fletcher, widowed 2 years by this time, worked as a guide across the moor for the work men bringing supplies to the site. He was staying with his sister-in-law, Mary Ann (McKinnon) McInnes, and her family at Rannoch Station. My grandmother had died there in 1937. Dad was there too, as a young child, and enjoyed his time with his 8 McInnes cousins.
Next, we made our way up to the ruined Fletcher castle, Achallader, built in the 1400s, burnt in 1691. Seemingly, meetings about what to do with the McDonalds, later murdered at Glencoe, were held here – a turbulent time. Took pictures. Dad ate a ripe damson plum from an old tree adjacent to the castle – I think he saved the stone with intent to planting it! I took some rowan berries with the same idea, plus 2 small pebbles that were lying on the ground – would like to get them polished to wear on a chain. Had a walk around the very, very old graveyard. Plenty of Fletchers there, but who? Many stones have sunk, possibly a foot, into the soft, wet ground (saw a frog!) The ‘newest’ burials appear to be from 1813. Before leaving, put my hand upon the castle wall which was built by my ancestors some 600 years ago. The word ‘pilgrimage’ came to my mind there.
Took a short side trip to Bridge of Orchy. Went down by the hotel and over a very old bridge. Took the road on the right along past Inveroran Hotel (now a shooting lodge) and then doubled back. Passed through a grove of old scotch pines hundreds of years old.
Went to Tyndrum. Stopped at The Green Welly, a restaurant/shop, just so Dad could ask inside if the road to Cononish was open to the public. Dad had lived at Cononish happily, before his mother’s early death and had good memories of it. His father had worked for Walter Burton in the early 1930s on this large farm. Today, gold has been found in the hills above and several companies have tried to make a go of it. We took a drive part way up, crossing ‘Fletcher’s Bridge’, a wooden bridge made by my grandfather and Walter Burton so my Dad could get to school (which was not to be – too far to walk at just over 3 miles.) Turned back and returned to Tyndrum. Booked a room for the night through the Visitors’ Centre and returned to the Green Welly for dinner. Then returned to the road to Cononish, this time using a brand new bridge, which has just been constructed over a ford in the river. Long, rough road up to Cononish. Met a Land Rover, a man and 3 sheep dogs up there. Turned out to be John Burton, son of Walter Burton. Dad knew John Burton from childhood. They had a great talk about the old days! Took pictures. On the way back down, photographed toadstools in the woods – big bright red ones with white spots like you see in fairy tale books!
Drove on to Crianlarich. Took A85 through Glen Dochart. Passed Auchessan and saw the ruins of where Rob Roy McGregor’s had been burned by his enemies in the 1700s. At Lix Toll, took A827 NE to lovely, picturesque village of Killin. Beautiful waterfalls in the middle of town. Lots of B&Bs. We stayed the night in the Dall Country Inn. I had room 3. Mum and Dad had room 4. I took a walk around the village just after our arrival at 8:00 p.m. Bought chips and pop at the Co-op store and walked back. Wrote for an hour. In bed by 9:30 p.m. Nice to have TV for a night. Looking forward to a good shower tomorrow. To date have taken 60 pictures and written 23 pages.

Thursday, September 11, 2008

Gale turned out to be nothing really. Up at 7:00 a.m. Breakfast before 8:00 a.m. Getting set to go to Iona today. Went down to Fionnphort. Bought ferry tickets and picked up a few things in the shop. I bought a pewter celtic cross for myself there. Took the 12:00 noon ferry over to Iona. Had a picnic lunch in the garden of the nunnery. Walked along to the abbey and toured around inside. Some wonderful cottage gardens along the way. Took some seeds from a large artichoke/thistle looking plant – no idea if they will grow for me at all.
Back on Mull, passed Alex Fletcher twice today along the roads! Used the Glen More (A849) road both ways today. Along the way, saw the rock that marks the spot where the Isle of Mull was once divided between the Irish and the Picts. Got a good look at jackdaws, gannets, cormorants and a seal feeding today. Back at caravan by 5:30 p.m. Making plans for supper. Sent postcards home. Likely leaving Mull tomorrow.

Wednesday, September 10, 2008

What a wild night with gales! Strong wind and lashing rain all night long. Up again at 7:00 a.m. The storm began to let up just after that. Had another great Highland breakfast this morning. Left the caravan at 9:15 a.m. and headed for Salen, drove straight through it and took the road to Dervaig again, going through the middle of the island, passing within sight of Kengharair again. At Dervaig, we took B8073. Made a side trip down to Croig where Dad once knew a man, Neil ‘DeGaulle’ Galbraith, so nicknamed for his habit of wearing a French style beret. Neil had died perhaps in 2007. He lived in the old drovers’ inn at Croig, last house on the left, a white one. Back onto main road again. Continued on to the beautiful white sandy beach at Calgary Bay. Parked and got out, walked down to the beach and collected some shells. A stunningly beautiful beach. Environmentally protected. Too windy and cold most of the time for any swimming but would be fun for kids and their sand toys anyway. Back on the road and around the bay. Half way along the south side of the bay, if you look back across at the hills on the north side, a crofting village once stood high up there. ( I have since learned it is Inivea.) Dad says our McKinnons were there in the early 1800s, and likely earlier, (I think this is/was part of Sunipol Estate?), and got cleared from there and went to Burg, Kilninian, where they may have been cleared again. Continuing on, we arrived at Burg House, a nice house on the left, which sits on what was once a crofting village of the same name – such is the case with most farm houses on Mull. The McKinnons were here. My McArthurs had been here too, in stone houses that once stood just up the hill and to the left of the present farm house at Burg. Across the road, there is a collection of ruins. This was Reudle. The better preserved ruin was Reudle School where James McDougall, husband to Kate McKinnon (great grandfather’s sister), once taught. He and Kate had 4 daughters, at least 2 of them died young. James died young too, while Kate was expecting the youngest one, Jemima, given the feminine form of James as a name, in honour of her late father. Kate’s brother, Donald McKinnon, was the first resident of the current Burg house and Kate, after she was widowed, became his housekeeper.
Took a side trip down to the Ulva Ferry. Looks like a 2 minute crossing on a small water taxi. Continued along the north shore of Loch Na Keal. Watched as a helicopter and bucket attachment went out to a boat anchored in the loch to make either a pick up or delivery.
We passed the gate of Torloisk Estate and then turned in at the gate marked ‘Torloisk Farm Square’. Once inside, we saw a fairly large but old farm stead. On the left, past a shed, is white cottage (joined to other buildings) where lives Margaret McKinnon , granddaughter of the above mentioned Donald McKinnon, my great grandfather’s brother. Margaret had been a housekeeper for years at Torloisk house. Had a lovely visit with her and took pictures.
Back to Salen. Stopped to shop. Stopped at caravan. On to Java to see Mhairi and George for dinner. At 7:30 p.m. we all went to Duart Castle for a charity do in aid of the Salen Church. Lovely buffet. It was a put together affair, but well done – a night of pipes, fiddle, accordion, Gaelic singing, all set in a 13th century castle belonging to the McLeans. Present chief of the clan, Sir Laughlin Mclean, and his mother were there. Left at 11:30 to near gale conditions. Cup of tea at Mhairi’s. Back to caravan by midnight and bed.

Tuesday, September 9, 2008

Up at 7:30 again. Breakfast of lorne sausage, bacon, egg, toast and tea. Left just after 9:00 a.m. for Pennygown Cemetery. Very old place with burials from hundreds of years ago, ancient roofless chapel, several standing celtic crosses. Some stones are only field stones. Many McPhails are buried here as they have farmed Glen Forsa for some 800 years. There are several Fletchers here too, including my great great grandparents, Alexander Fletcher and Catherine McPhail, some of their children including Kate (Fletcher) Cameron and Colin Fletcher. Took pictures. Returned to caravan by 11:45 a.m. to heat up lunch of mince and potatoes so kindly provided by Mhairi Campbell. Dessert of trifle. Finished by 1:30 and headed out for the Ross of Mull. Very windy today. Raining as we set off.
Took a wonderful scenic drive through some of the most fabulously wild scenary anywhere, I’m sure. From caravan we headed for Salen and then turned left onto B8035 just past the hospital. Turned right just past a house called Alt An Searmain where once lived a ‘wild west cowboy’. He had been a Mull native who went away to America and returned upon his retirement. Dad knew him as a boy (1940s) and the man was about 80 then. Then drove along the wild shore of Loch Na Keal. Passed the remains of an old house where a newlywed couple were reportedly killed instantly, and most likely entombed there yet, when a massive rock fell off the hill face above. Sheep absolutely everywhere – pity the shepherds who have to climb hundreds of feet to gather them all! Saw Derryguaig where great great grandmother Catherine (McPhail) Fletcher died in 1904. Her daughter, Kate, later of Dervaig, was there then too. Saw Balmeanach where my Paterson great great grandparents once lived too. Continued along the shore of Loch Beg and of Loch Scridain to Pennygael. Turned up the hill just past Pennygael Hotel, then past Leidle Farm, which I photographed, where my great great grandmother, Annie Paterson, was born and remained up until about age 7. Went up past there on a long a sometimes harrowing road that hugged a vertical drop in a dense, mossy wood. Came out at Carsaig Pier, now half destroyed and quickly turning into a ruin, on Carsaig Bay. Heavy rain came on. Seals, 3 or 4 of them, popped up and came closer to see Dad and I. Barked once or twice. Really cute animals! Then back on scary road. Had to back up once, which I really hated, on the precipice side, to allow another car to pass. I would say 90% of the roads on Mull are single track roads.
Then followed the A849 to a fork in the road where you can go to either Lee or Ardtun. This is just past the monument, on the left, to Mary McDonald who wrote ‘Morning Has Broken’ (or ‘Child in a Manger’). Took the Lee road past 2 hairpin bends, went a half mile. Just above a ‘new house’, is the caravan of Alex Fletcher, a distant (although connection still unproven) relative through the Laudale branch. He is a big and hearty fellow, rough but kind, a true Highlander trying his best to dig at his family tree roots. He is currently a road man and loves all kinds of machinery – just like my Dad. The visit was just great. He was a half hour late for our visit, so we awaited him in front of his caravan on the wind swept hill with an awe inspiring view of Bunessan, but beyond that Staffa (Fingals Cave), Dutchman’s Cap and Tiree – simply amazing, almost impossible to describe with words. The light was ever changing, the wind whistled eerily, you could see, hear and smell the sheep. I was glad Alex was late, allowing me more time to stand a bit longer in this wonderful place. We arrived at 4:30 p.m., saw Alex by 5:00 p.m., left him by 8:00 p.m. He presented us with two gifts, a DVD called “Eagle Island” and a book I had heard of “Tea With Chrissie” which is about the ‘other’ Burg (not our Burg at Kilninian) but the one at the point at Loch Scridain. Took the road through Glen More. Saw some deer, rabbits, toads. Back at caravan at 9:45 p.m. Had cold lorne sausage sandwich and tea. Journal writing until 10:30, then bed.

Monday, September 8, 2008

monday, September 8, 2008
Rose at 7:30 a.m. Breakfast, cooked by Dad, of lorne (square) sausage, bacon, fried egg, tea and toast. Set off by car up Glen Aros along the road that runs through the middle of the north end of Mull. It’s a single track road all the way. Passed highland cattle, all kinds of sheep, the remnants of many ruined cottages dating back to about the 1840s when the inhabitants were forced out during the Highland Clearances. Part way along, to the left, across the glen, you can see Kengarhair, the farm once leased by Condullie Rankin Morrison, from the historic owners, the McLeans who have all of Torloisk Estate. This farm is where my great grandfather, Neil McKinnon, worked in the late 1800s. In 1883, he married Annie Paterson. Not sure how they met as she was not living nearby that we know of. However, she had an uncle who was a Free Church minister at nearby Dervaig. The house that the McKinnons were in is gone now. It was located well down below the farm house and today all there is is a large clump of trees and a burn. Took pictures. Saw the “shedder” – an iron gate type device once used to separate the social classes. The shepherds etc. had to go in the back door, while the desirable people went through the front door. This was reportedly designed by Condullie Morrison – hated or loved and much respected, depending on who you talk to! His name appears on grandmother, Catherine McKinnon’s birth registration. He was registrar, sherriff, poor law officer and lots of other things. He was great at getting people evicted, it seems. Grandmother was the only one of Neil and Annie’s children born at Kengarhair. The eldest two, Neil and Dan, plus the younger ones, Bella and Mary Ann, were all born on Tiree where Annie’s parents were. She seemed to want to give birth at her mother’s house. Somehow – bad November weather, early baby? – grandmother was born at Kengarhair.
After this, we went up to Glen Aros Estate where great great grandfather, Alexander Fletcher, had gone mid 1800s to work with his relative, Duncan Fletcher. Great grandfather, Angus Fletcher, b. 1860s, was the eldest and was born there in the now ruined house called Achadashenaig, below the big house. Ten children were born there in a period of 18 years, to Alexander Fletcher and Catherine McPhail – Angus, John, Alexander, Colin, Ronald, Mary, Catherine, Jane S., Margaret and Lilly. They moved to Aros Mains and Alexander Fletcher Sr. died there in 1883, as did his daughter, Margaret, about the same time. They were living then in the white house that you can see is located closest to the farm building. At this time, Lilly and Ronald worked at the shop in Salen. It is not known what happened to the family in the short term, but Catherine McPhail, my great great grandmother, lived until 1904. In 1891 and 1901 she was at Derryguaig and died there.
We went out by Sorne and then drove by the beautiful baronial style castle, Glen Gorm, built by a Forsyth who had been in Jamaica and gotten very rich, likely from sugar. He had evicted several local Mull families. Finally, an old woman placed a curse on him, saying he would never live in the house. In the end, he dropped dead from a heart attack on the front step upon a final inspection.
We had lunch today at the Bellachroy Hotel in Dervaig. It was built in 1608. It is a lovely whitewashed building, a nice Scots pub with rustic beams, slate placemats, historical photos on the walls, celtic background music playing. Had a smoked salmon and cream cheese sandwich – very good!
Went to Tobermory, a beautiful seaside village with brightly painted shops. A TV show is filmed here, so they need to keep it looking good. Went into musem. Went into Co-op store again to pick up cookies and cakes for gifts. Came back along A848. Near Salen, we stopped to take pictures of 3 derelict boats anchored at Salen Bay. Also photographed the remains of the old pier where the immigrants were once often seen weeping as they were put onto ships against their will as they were evicted from the land.
Returned to our trailer by about 6:00 p.m. (had left at 9:00 a.m.) and had tea and cake. Then went out again. We had previously stopped in Salen in search of a phone box, in order to phone Alex Fletcher at Ardtun, Bunessan and had also checked the Spar shop there to see if Alex’s sister, Christian, was working there today – no luck with either. So we headed out first to Grass Point, the narrowest place (3 miles) between Mull and the mainland. This is where cattle were brought across to market. Great grandfather, Angus Fletcher, was involved with this process. On the way through Loch Don, we stopped in at the local post office as we believed Alex Fletcher (of Ardtun) had a sister who ran it. I went to the door and sure enough, Cathy (Fletcher) McLean was at home and asked us in for a visit. Had a very enjoyable time there. Her husband, Archie McLean, joined us later. He knew some local folks that Dad had attended school with at Tobermory in the 1940s. Turns out Cathy and her 3 siblings were all born in Tanginyka (now Tanzania) in Africa as her father worked there. When their mother died, just after Alex’ birth, they all came back to Loch Don on Mull. After our visit, we continued to Grass point. Saw many rabbits, a couple of deer and some highland cattle – some on the road. Back at the caravan by 9:00 p.m.

Saturday, September 6, 2008 – Sunday September 7, 2008

Departed Toronto at 8:30 p.m. Flew overnight, landing at Glasgow about 7:30 a.m. local time. Picked up rental car (Vauxhaul) and left Glasgow travelling north on the M8. Took the A82 until Arrochar and then took the very winding lochside (Loch Lomond) road for Crianlarich. You pass by the front of the Arrochar Hotel where my grandfather, Alex Fletcher, (1890-1950), was employed to catch the reigns of the coach horses in his youth. At Crianlarich, continued on A82 going west now through the village of Tyndrum and past the back of where Cononish is located. Passed through the village of Dalmally. Drove on to the beautiful town of Oban. Hard to find parking – plenty of tourists around yet! Took a walk around. Had a light lunch at about 1:00 p.m. at McTavish’s on George St., overlooking the bay. Spent some time beside the bay looking over at the Isle of Mull 4 miles away. Drove along High St. where my grandfather (mentioned above) was born. Not sure of house number, might be number 13? Took the 4:00 ferry, the “Isle of Mull” from Oban to Mull, landing at Craignure 45 minutes later. From there, we drove to the small community of Java where Mhairi and George Campbell live. Had tea there. Mhairi is the daughter of Colin Fletcher. Colin, Alisdair and Kate were all children of Colin Fletcher, who was brother to my great grandfather, Angus Fletcher. Mhairi had 2 sisters, Fiona and Margaret, both now deceased, and a brother, Cameron Fletcher. Fiona’s widower is Seamus Ferguson. Afterwards, we went to a Co-op store to shop for food. Very tired – we were awake some 29 hours! Went to bed (in our rented caravan) at 7:45 p.m.